Sneaking in a rambling post for November

While I should have been handed an eviction notice from the internet police for abandoning this blog, it lives on mes amis! I must apologise to the handful of you who actually have some interest in my life- I've been waiting for some big news stories to hit so I could wow you with my spectacular life. Alas I am still waiting to save that run away pram, and find an abandoned winning lottery ticket on the street. So instead of these heart racing, perspire inducing thrillers, here are my everyday life experiences comme je vis à Bordeaux. (Although an apartment did burn down over the weekend, so that's something?) 

My self esteem has taken a beating lately as the cooler months have crept up, as I'm assaulted daily by seeing les enfants dressed infinitely better than I could ever dream of. I found myself walking behind a small boy and his mother on the weekend when I noticed that this 5 year old was just casually wearing a Burberry kids coat. No biggie. Not to mention the little girls who I see playing in the jardin publique who appear to have been styled by winter angels. (Actually just their super stylish mothers). Honestly, if I could wear a scarf as well as a 4 year old french fille, I would be thrilled.

I call this, "Autumn in the garden." 

To counter this daily soul crushing, wine must be consumed! A few chip Friday's ago, I went to a wine bar in town with mes amis australiens called "Aux Quatre Coins du Vin." It was cool, you guys! I know I'm going to make a terrible mess of explaining it all, but bear with me. Patrons are given a credit card with a chip, which is loaded up with an allocated amount of credit. We started with €30. Then you take your wine glass and the card and pop the card into a slot above the selection of wine bottles before you. Then comes the decision concerning wine quantity. A taster, half glass, or full glass. Then the cost of your glass is deducted from your card and you retournez to the table and enjoy your wine and order a delicious charcuterie plate. The prices for all of the wines are displayed above the bottles, so you can play a fun game of "do we use up all of our credit on a €19 glass of wine?" It was a really cool way of trying lots of different wines without having to commit. Perfect for anyone who struggles with decisions or has minimal wine knowledge ie. Me. 

This the road where my laundromat is!
You can see the white, blue and red sign on the left (if you squint a little).

And now time for Sarah's book club! I recently read "Us" by David Nicholls. I pretty much only chose this because I love, love, loved "One Day." Unfortunately I didn't have the same experience with Us. I mean, it was nice enough, but I wish I had borrowed it from a library instead of buying it, you know. Harsh but true. I did like the little tour of Europe that featured, but I got a bit bored, generally, and just wanted it to finish. Awkward. Read it if you're living in a foreign country and need the comfort of your mother language.

I also downloaded Lena Dunham's biography. Easy reading while I waited at the laundromat, but I can hardly remember any of the anecdotes, so it obviously didn't change my life at all. 

Taking a slightly different turn, although not entirely unrelated to books, I went and saw the latest instalment of The Hunger Games. It was everything I imagined it to be. Citizens of the districts being murdered. J. Law being pissed off that citizens are being murdered. Fight scenes. Special effects. A Hemsworth. Me laughing at the way J.Law says "Pee-dah." An unresolved ending. Yeah. It was solid. 

A building. 

Back to more important matters! French markets! Ahh what glorious places. Les marchés have reminded me of what "seasonal produce" actually means. While I was devastated when stone fruit started slowly disappearing, I was excited to see what would take it's place when autumn rolled around. And it was my excitement of bountiful fruit and pressure purchasing which lead me to "accidentally" buy 2kg of mandarins the other weekend. "Two kilos," you say, "that's not too bad!" Oh, dear friend, picture this- one ordinary plastic bag. Full. Of a fruit that I ordinarily refuse to eat. Yes, I was charmed by the fruit lady, who encouraged me to try the sample, and then I thought to myself, "that wasn't too bad!" She then informed me that I could purchase 2kg for a mere €4! What a bargain! And it was fruit! That's a healthy choice! Better than 2kg of butter! (But is it?!) A mere 2 weeks later, and I had finished my fruit bowl full of what I believe to be the most tedious fruit in the world. However I did somewhat enjoy these , so perhaps I've been converted. 

A posy from the market.

As the weather grows cooler, and I become increasingly nervous about living through a full length french winter, we also approach the most wonderful time of the year. This year I haven't had the advantage of observing when the bloom of the jacaranda tree is here to signal when Christmas might be near, but instead I have watched as Bordeaux slowly, slowly erected lights and trees throughout the city. Including a Christmas market! And a giant Christmas tree in front of the cathedral! And window displays! And lights everywhere! It's all very exciting. I shall let you all know how the market is. (And I promise it won't take me a month).

Much love to you all as we approach my most beloved time of year. Bises xxxx

Trains are never early...

Hola amigos!

So I finally did something that I've been meaning to do since moving, and no it's not develop a comprehensive list of desserts that can be prepared sans oven- that's still in development- I made a short trip down to San Sebastián! It takes less time to get to Spain than it does to Paris from Bordeaux, and so it only made sense for me to go when I had some time off. And so with my backpack packed and on my back, I boarded the train, destination Hendaye with a gaggle of excited 50 plussers. No word of a lie, there were about 20 parental aged travellers shouting to each other through the carriage and making jokes for the first hour of the trip. Crying babies, I'll take you any day. After a particularly delightful train nap, I descended at Hendaye and swiftly remembered that I do not speak Spanish. Hendaye is on the very border of France and Spain, and while technically a french speaking location, I was required to purchase my regional ticket to San Seb in español. More like espanlol. 40 minutes later I had arrived at my destination and so I made my way to the "Surfing Etxea" hostel. I know I'm reaching my limits for hostel stints, but sometimes if you cross your fingers and toes you manage to find a place that doesn't make you want to stab 19 year olds with the communal cutlery. This was one of those places.

Do love a marina pic.

While it was located on the "new town" side of the river (yikes, wrong side of the river) it was close to the surfing beach which is always nice for walks and surfer perving, and the other people who were staying there were so lovely. It's basically a guys house that he's converted into a hostel, so it feels nice and homey, plus it was also really clean. Would recommend. But onto the more important things! Food!

The devicive bridge. Fondly renamed, "Golf Ball Bridge."

I had pretty much planned to spend my time away eating pintxos and drinking sangria for 2 solid days, and I did not disappoint myself. On the first night we headed out to some pintxos bars (tapas that is laid out on bars for customers to select as they fancy) to give the local fare a go. To someone who has seen the movie "Mermaids" and grown up with the soundtrack providing the tunes to a childhood, the idea of eating what is essentially finger food for dinner is right up my alley. I think the idea is just to have 1 or 2 items and then move on to another bar, (or probably eat a proper meal) but given my issues with decision making, I would usually end up with 4 or 5 morsels on my plate. The first night we just kind of floated around to wherever was open (Monday nights are not such a happening thing at the end of the tourist season it would seem) but on the second night, I was prepared with a list, and so with my new buddies in tow, we hit the streets to do what I do best; eat.

The food's so good you'll have to pintxo-self.

I had a delicious scallop gratin at the first bar we went to, and then a not so inspiring anchovy combo at the next stop, but this was all just a lead up to the most amazing tapas experience ever at Zeruko. This place was seriously cool. I know that I'm easily influenced by a bit of food bling, but they had gold dust on artichoke hearts! Golden hearts! Filled with more delicious scallopy goodness. In hindsight, I did chose savoury items that all looked like desserts, but hey, I know what I like. Another notable item was the pistachio crumbed blood sausage served with raspberry sauce. Too pretty not to enjoy! After all of the deliciousness, we went to a bar famous for it's cheesecake. Someone had told us a story of a woman crying with joy when she tried this cheesecake. Sceptical as I was, inward we journeyed to try this tear inducing cake. I have to say, I was initially impressed that they had 14 tins of cheesecake waiting to be served. It was like looking into my future as a mother who has nailed dinner food prep for the week. I jest, cheesecake is a weekend dinner food. Verdict: I love cheesecake, so it was good, but I did not shed a tear, my desire to bake my own chocolate cheesecake merely grew stronger. So, so content with all this food!

Bling food!

Not so blingy, but just as delicious.

Cheesecaaaaaake!

In other activities (as if eating isn't enough) I also climbed the hill to visit the Jesus statue, and shopped at Zara. A larger range and lower prices! Thanks Spain! Plus general wandering and church sightings were thrown in for good measure.

View from Jesus Hill.

Plaza de la Constitución

And as if this is all sounding just too good to be true, it is. I had decided to take a late train home to Bordeaux, one which just happened to be the final train for the day out of Hendaye. And guess what I managed to do? I got on the wrong train. So I journeyed 4km south to Irun, the Spanish border town, and got stuck. Having realised that I was in a regional Spanish town at dusk, there may have been a few quick tears (where was the cheesecake?!) and I stress ate 2 twix bars from a vending machine. Alas back to San Sebastián I travelled to meet yet more Australians at the hostel, and I ventured back to Bordeaux the next day. What a relief it was to finally be home! Never had I felt such joy at seeing the giant puddle of water at Place de la Bourse, commonly known as the "Miroir d'Eau."

You probably think this flavour's about you.

And so ends my adventure to San Sebastián, land of deliciousness. Go and eat there, it was fabulous!

Heat Wave

A terrible thing happened today. Something that I hoped I would never have to experience. One of those scenarios that you hear about happening to other people, and you just think, "Oh, that'll never happen to me!"

Today I spent the whole day whinging about it being "Soooooooo hottttttt, I'm sweatingggggg, aghhhh why is it so hotttttt?" The forecast for today was a maximum of 29C.

Having lived through one of the hottest summer days on record in Adelaide but a few months ago, when I had to endure working in an un-airconditioned kitchen while old mate Satan himself sent fireballs through the streets to produce 45C weather, today marked a terrifying transition into what I can now refer to as having a completely lame ass internal thermostat. I now live in fear for my return to Australian summer, given that temperatures higher than 25C now cause me to break out not only sandals, but also a sweat.

France, you may have weakened my heat resistance, but you cannot break my spirits.

Soooooo hottttttttttt.

"What are you up to on your days off?" "PARIS!"

Ahh the European lifestyle. Jetting off to a new location every weekend. Visiting Vienna on a whim, sojourning in Stockholm because you so fancied, and popping off to Paris because your cousin sent you a message one night asking if you were free to catch up, and you said "YOLO! See you on Tuesday cuz!" It's a hilarious misconception that living abroad equates to holidays every second weekend, but I finally managed to take a spontaneous trip this week to my favourite place to see some special peeps.

I arrived in Paris on Tuesday and was grinning from ear to ear as the train pulled into the Montparnasse station and I caught a glimpse of Eiffey. It has been said that absence makes the heart grow fonder, and gee was I in the mood for Paris. I had to stop myself from gleefully skipping down Rue Rivoli after I checked into my fave hostel (where I was weirdly allocated the same room as my last visit 2 months ago) because I was just so happy to be back. Sorry to sound like a gushy teenager, but my word Paris was so beautiful. The early autumn light was working it's magic on the buildings and the sky was clear and blue. Plus the leaves have started to turn so it was just a little bit pretty.

I love Paris in the spring time, I love Paris in the fall...

I made the necessary pilgrimage to the local boulangerie to have cake for lunch, and then really mixed things up by visiting the Mémorial de la Shoah, a holocaust memorial for all of the French Jews who were murdered. I noticed this memorial the last time I was around the Marais and I was interested to visit because it seemed like an appropriate site to visit given the history of Jewish people in the area, and the deportation of French families from their homes during WWII. I don't even know how to explain the gravity of the experience. Perhaps I will just leave the comment of it being a very powerful collection and reminder of the devastating crime committed against an innocent population.

A section of one of the walls showing the children
who were killed in concentration camps.

Next I met Amelia and Dimi outside Ladurée on the Champs Élysées. Hugs and excitement and chatter! We wandered down to Notre Dame (deceptively further than anticipated) and had a drink overlooking Île Saint-Louis. Because we were close(ish) I took the lovebirds to my fave falafel haunt, because nothing screams french fare more than ground chickpeas am I right?! Plus I still had a food promise to fulfill from August. They were delicious as usual, and I was a happy chappy. After a little roam around the area, Dimi and I had crêpes for dessert, because overeating is what I do best, and Dimi was happy to join me. I had Nutella, banana and coconut and it was great. We parted our separate ways, and I was reminded that the internet situation at the hostel left a little to be desired, so I took my internet compatible devices to the local Starbucks only to discover that it closes at 8pm! Which seems ridiculous! Obviously the demand for overpriced, American chain beverages wanes after dark. But come on! The free wifi potential!

Just a couple of cousins having drinks in Paris

This is my excited falafel face.

Never happier than when I'm about to eat.

On Wednesday, I met Amelia for some market perusing. Not an easy feat, with mid-week marchés not being particularly popular. We eventually found one that was open, "La marché des enfants rouges" which was smaller than I had anticipated, and also not quite as interesting as the internet had promised, so we journeyed to Galeries Lafeyettes so we could be proper shoppers. We went up to the terrace of the building, which I'd never done before, to get a rooftop view. My professional opinion leads to me say that the panoramic view from the top of Printemps is superior. Just saying. We met up with Dimi so he and Amelia could journey up to Montmarrte, and so I said "Au revoir et bon voyage", and I ventured to the Apple store so I could charge my phone and use their internet. Thanks Apple! Had a good old chat with my Mum and Dad, because it was an opportune moment.

Ugh, be less photogenic next time, Paris. Ile de Saint-Louis.

Next was an unsuccessful boot and coat hunt, and I felt like a pauper because I couldn't justify €450 on a beautiful coat, I mean it was on sale from €650, so I would have saved money...but I probably couldn't pay this month's rent with such ease. It's a hard knock life you guys. Now here's the joke for the post, I bought some gym pants. Haaaaaaa! I thought I'd better get some full length pants for winter, with the idea that I can exercise when it's colder. Man I do some weird shit when I'm hungry! I found a Prêt at the Lafeyette food hall, so I had a delicious sandwich and a green juice on the steps of the Opéra Garnier. Just call me Blair.

It's Wednesday, I'm in love. They're the lyrics, right?

Time to head back to my hood and buy some tea from Mariage Frères, because my stock levels needed replenishing, and Paris Breakfast makes me happy. Then it was just about time to head for the train, so I got back on my beloved metro and onto the TGV bound for Bordeaux. I was a bit sad to be leaving Paris, which I'm taking as a positive sign that I need to return for an extended period of time. Definitely feeling the need to move after Christmas, so will get my organising hat on and make it happen, yo.

And so ends my tale of a midweek soul revival trip. If you ever feel sad, just go to Paris. Easy.

xxx

I don't believe in Peter Pan, Frankenstein or Superman, all I wanna do is...

Bicycle! Bicycle! Bicycle!

NB This is not my bike. Nor my image. It belongs

to Google.  But just imagine if it were mine! Ooh la la!

If I wasn't currently in possession of a vélo, there would be so many experiences I would never have had the pleasure of knowing. Bordeaux is ridiculously bike friendly, and so it made sense for me to acquire a set of wheels to get around in this flat, bike lane riddled city.

Let's start with a general daily experience to which I can only really attribute to bike riding- arriving anywhere already sweaty and in need of a shower.  Such is the joy of using an exercise method as your primary form of transport. Never before have I had to carry deodorant and perfume with me at all times. Quel grand plaisir!

More recently I have also had the pleasure of being propositioned on my journey home from work after midnight on a Sunday night (morning?). Might I preface this exchange by saying that I looked a right treat- I'd just completed a 13.5 hour split shift day in a sweaty kitchen, and I was wearing not a scrap of makeup nor eagerness to converse with fellow cyclistes. As I turned the first corner onto a main road to start my swift ride home, I noticed a young fellow ride past me and cast his gaze upon my person. He took this opportunity to comment on the lack of traffic at this time. No shit Sherlock, normal people are at home. Feeling confident after his successful icebreaker he proceeded to observe that we were both travelling in the same direction. Wowsers! What a coincidence on a one way road! I took this break in conversation to slow down so that Casanova could pass me and continue on his way. Alas he only took this as a sign that I wanted to slow down to persue a conversation as he too slowed down so we could travel together. Now for my favourite line of our exchange, "So are you coming home with me?" Smooth operator! Thankfully, my swift response ended our meaningful conversation, and he pedalled on.

As I rode home from my first shift on Sunday, I made a detour via the markets to participate once more in "Smoothie Sunday." Get on board! Currently there is one person I know of who participates in this ritual. She's pretty great. And very attractive. And hilarious. I think she also donates a lot of her spare time and money to charities. Haaaaa! I'm joking! It's me! And I have literally no spare time or money seeing as I work approximately 500 hours a week for less than the legal minimum wage. Anyway. I digress. As I rode home on Sunday, slightly delirious from lack of sleep and solid food, something peculiar occurred. All of a sudden, my bike made very unhealthy sounds when I pedalled and I was no longer travelling forward. The chain had come off! Woohoooo! Time to put all of my bike mechanic skills to use! Oh my goodness you guys, bikes are filthy! At least I was only wearing white shorts and a black and white tee shirt. Nothing to worry about re grease marks staining clothes. However because I am a graceful and skilled goddess, I actually managed to realign the rascal onto the...cog...spinner...wheel...spikey round...thing... Whatever! I got home, and I'm pretty sure the bike is still okay...plus my clothes remained as pristine as before the incident. #lyfskillz

My latest thrilling escapade was carrying two rather large bags of shopping home balanced on the handles. Once more, I'm sure the people of Bordeaux enjoyed the spectacle of Sarah's daily life. My favourite part was when one of the handles of a bag fell off of the handle, and I had to lunge at the eggs to make sure they didn't fall onto the road. I'd paid €2.02 for free range, I wasn't going to disrespect those poor hens!

Finally, the feeling of the wind whipping through my hair as I speed through the rues is one that I have come to appreciate. Helmets aren't enforced, so I needn't ever fret about helmet hair (only excessive sweating) which makes riding so much more accessible. Who knows, I might even ride when I get back to Adelaide. Ha! We'll see.

I hope you're all enjoying access to your cars, and have a good week!

Lots of love from your favourite wanna-be French bicycle bandit xxx

Life hacks!

Eat cheese, drink wine and listen to some sweet tunes to remind yourself that life is okay, and you too are okay. Dancing is optional, but advised.

Bonus life tip: cook your quinoa in stock (or add a stock cube if you're going for the authentic "Sarah in France" experience) to make it taste delicious. What a little salt and artificial flavour can't do!

Lessons learnt from the fortnight past.

1. Laser tag, it's not for me.

If life is all about trying new experiences, and sucking out the marrow, then I've got a new one to add to my arsenal. It was generally agreed that it would be nice for a bit of staff bonding between shifts, so a few Wednesdays ago, I was subjected to the activity known as "Laser Tag." When I told Elisa that I had par taken in multiple rounds of "Laser Quest" in Bordeaux, I was greeted with laughter. Why laughter? Why only because it combines so many of my least preferred things into one neat little parcel of stress. Being chased. Check. Darkness. Check. Loud, horrible rave music. Check. Shooting at others, and subsequently being shot at. Check. Wearing a vest soaked in the sweat of hundreds of others before me. Check. Small children laughing at me. Check. I did live to tell the tale though, so that's something! Let's treat it as just another challenge that this country has thrown at me.

2. The lyrics to "Fancy" by Iggy Azalea

Thank you french radio for putting this song on your must play lists. When I'm lucky enough to be working 11 hours a day (we'll get to that in a minute) with the radio on, I get to hear this song approximately 5 times. This song can also be added to the sub list of things that I can confirm I do not like. She be the I-G-G-Y you guys. Put her name in bold.

3. Split shifts need to be renamed to shit shifts.

Let's cut the BS. Split shifts are the worst. Currently they mean that I can be working from 10.30am until midnight. You do the maths. 13.5 hours at work. (I did the maths for you, sorry if you had your hand up ready to answer). Oh, but it's okay, because yesterday I had a 1.5 hour break. Lollll that's not really okay. It's bloody exhausting.

4. Losing a wallet can be quite stressful.

Last week I lost my purse. I think it must have fallen out of my bag as I was riding home from the shops. Following my minor (read: all consuming) panic and frantic retracing of footsteps/wheels I rang home and employed the help of my dear Mum and Dad to cancel all credit cards. So with no access to money, I raced to the pub to see if I had any tips waiting for me that I could use to get through the next few days before pay day. Lucky for me, there was €16! Yahoo! Thank you people of Bordeaux! This is an ongoing issue, as I'm still yet to be paid, so until then, I'm on the ultimate budget. I'm extraordinarily lucky in that I've never had to really worry about money. So it has been intense having to count each coin and make sure that I can get through the next few days. I am also lucky to be in a situation where I have people I can ask for help should I find myself in an emergency, as I am acutely aware that there are millions of people who do not have this freedom. Silver lining!

5. Perseverance.

Sometimes you've just got to keep on keeping on. Life is not always sunshine and rainbows, even if you're dream chasing in France. I've had to push through and keep trying to sort myself out. Spoiler alert, I don't spend my days laughing and soaking up sunshine on a cafe terrace as I munch on pastries and sip endless cups of tea. One day I'd like to post about being content and feeling full with happiness, but that day is not today. Right now, I'm still searching for a job that I feel happy to wake up for, and where I learn new things and feel like I'm working towards a greater goal, and generally feeling comfortable in this country that keeps throwing curve balls. One step at a time, and of course that great adage, "How do you eat an elephant?" Thanks Walford assembly!

6. I have reconfirmed the power of a shower and nap.

If you feel overwhelmed or just sad, go and have a shower and a sleep. It will help. (And if possible, it also helps to get a spray tan, but that's not really an option for me right now). Warm water and a bed. Winning combos. (Can also be used in reverse for a timeless prank.)

7. Sugar free snacks are not all bad.

So anyone who has ever met me would be aware that I consume A LOT of sugar and chocolate. I realised that perhaps my pack a day (of chocolate) was maybe getting out of hand, and so I started making these little cocoa and date balls to quash any cravings. Very out of character, but I would actually recommend to a friend! I throw some almonds and coconut in too for some texture. I think this has helped curb some of my sugar roller coaster emotions too.

8. Friends are essential.

Yet another spoiler alert in this post- I can experience some excruciatingly lonely stints living alone in a foreign country. Over the weekend, I had time to catch up with some new Bordeaux friends and it was just so lovely. I went out for some drinks with two girls from work on Friday and had a grand old time. Then on Saturday I caught up with one of the Aussies that I met at an "Internations" group catch up a few months ago. Just having a few normal social experiences helped me feel so much happier and calmer about my life. So if you're lucky enough to be in close proximity to a friend or two, I would highly recommend you do an activity together.

9. La Comtesse in Bordeaux is a cool place to hang. 

Here's a fun one for you all! Went here a couple of times, and they do really good cocktails for an affordable France price. Plus the toilet here is crazay. Take my word for it and look up as you're weeing.

10. I am terrible at coming up with even numbered lists. 

Self explanatory. I had to include this, because I know there are a few of you who read this blog who would have a slight anxiety if I'd ended this on 9. You're welcome.

Apologies if this was a slightly upsetting post to read, I promise I'm okay, exhaustion will do that to a usually cheery Sarah. Speaking of which, it's "RUOK?" Day on Thursday! Ask your people how they're doing, because you never know if they've just been waiting for someone to ask. Hope you're all okay!

Lots o' love from Sarah, living her not-so-bad life in Bordeaux. xxxx

p.s. More food pics to come soon, because I know that what you're really hanging out for, none of this real life mumbo-jumbo!

An Ode to Laundromats

When considering France, a land so chic,

It is easy to over look the laverie automatique.

Rows upon rows of machines to share, 

Wash your clothes within, if you dare. 

How much will this cost? 2 euro, maybe 3? 

Non, non, Mademoiselle, "4 euro" the signs indicate with glee. 

"You know, you don't have to separate your lights from your darks." 

But I do, old lady, else my white shorts will have marks. 

And so I sit patiently and wait for my washing, 

Listening in the quiet to the water sloshing. 

Glad to have brought with me, a book, for distraction, 

When 30 minutes are up, I jump to action. 

Never convinced that my belongings are clean, 

I am nervous to dry my clothes in the lint filled machine. 

An uncomfortable experience, my washing I do postpone, 

I long for the day when I have a machine of my own. 

A self-directed therapy session.

France is onto a good trend. Today I picked up a carnet de coloriage antistress at my beloved Mollat. "An antistress carnet?!" you ask. Why yes! It is a colouring in book for adults! And it is great! I've been stressing out a bit lately because I still haven't quite sussed out my work/visa situation, and I'm terrified of being deported, plus I've also been a bit sad and lonely (don't cry for me Argentina) so thought I'd go back to basics and spend some time colouring in, a la kindy days.

Just imagine this seascape filled with texta! How relaxing!

I'm happy to report that it was a fantastic investment. It really helped me calm down and redirect some of my energy. I'm not sure if these kinds of books are available in Australia, but even so, get yourself a kids colouring in book and give it a go the next time you're freaking out about your visa and long term goals. HA! Or whatever else might be playing on your mind.

Nothing like a floral seal to soothe the soul!

Besties in Bordeaux

Georgie came down to Bordeaux with me after Paris, so we had another 5 days together. It was spectacular. It was so nice being in B-town with a friend and having someone to hang and chat with. I was pretty devastated when we had to part ways again. I can safely say that I am terrible at saying goodbye to people. Definitely not an activity for the public arena! Here is the breakdown of our 5 days together in the form of our major activities. 

1. Eat.

My favourite activity! The first night we had a slightly liquid diet with wine, and then couldn't make a decision about what we actually felt like eating (typical!). Eventually we ended up at an Italian place and had pizza. Gelati afterwards of course! 

We also tried out L'Entrecôte, which is a french chain specialising in a one dish menu- entrecôte! It's served with unlimited chips, and a secret recipe sauce. (If butter is a secret ingredient, I think we cracked the code) Georgie and I went with some of my new found Aussie pals, and I think we were all a bit apprehensive about how it worked. I have to say though, I was pleasantly surprised! Let's face it, I'm always going to be won over with chips! 

Chip Partayyyy

For our last meal together (sob) we went to the most well know bistro in town, La Tupina. It's won all kinds of awards, and is written up everywhere as the place to eat in Bordeaux, so we were looking forward to it. Long story short though, we were both kind of disappointed. The wine was insanely expensive for what we got, the service we received was awkward, and our mains were not particularly inspiring. After sharing a starter of foie gras (which was good), I had the roast chicken, which was a bit dry, and Georgie had duck, which came with no sauce. Literally just a lump of meat on her plate. Very strange. I think maybe the lunch menu would have been better, or maybe we're just spoilt (probably both). The comment was thrown around that we could both have cooked better roasts at home, which is never what you want to be saying when you're paying for a meal. So I don't know you guys, I feel bad giving such a negative review, but I was just expecting more.

Chicken, served with a variety of fats.

Of course there were also boulangerie trips thrown in for good measure too! Bread is essential, so we made assorted trips to Paul and also a patissierie called David which was nearby at the Galerie des Grands Hommes. (Who are all of these men, and why haven't I met them yet?!)  

2. Drink.

Bordeaux. Home of wine. Of course we were going to have some dranks! We tried out the wine bar at the Ecole du Vin (where I had previously done a wine class) and would definitely recommend. Glasses of wine are only around €2 or €3, so it was really easy to try a few different sorts and not feel guilty if we didn't like them. Not going to lie, I can't remember any of the names, but the setting is really cool, and there are some nice tasting plates too. We had some cheese and charcuterie, and combined with the people watching, we had a merry old time! (Honestly though, Georgie and I could probably have the time of our lives watching paint dry- miss you gurlfrand!)

A wall of wine.

We also went to the rooftop bar at the top of the Grand Hotel, which promises panoramic views of the city. All of the balcony tables at the edge of the building were taken, so we didn't get to enjoy the view as we sipped our crazy expensive drinks, but it was something different to do! 

Pano roof shot with some bonus cranes. Lucky!

3. Day trip. 

A trip to Bordeaux would not be complete without a trip out to one of the wineries! We went to Saint Emilion on a bus organised by the tourist office, which was great. Our tour guide was so lovely, and was very informative. We visited one of the chateau in the region and were given an extensive guided tour, and were shown around all of the wine production areas and had the processes explained. Then there was the much awaited tasting, and we nervously shared our thoughts on the wine and picked out the flavours we could taste. "Don't be scared!" 

Just a couple of barrels. 

Then we went into the town of Saint Emilion and had a look around the crazy old church and sampled original recipe macarons. It was a really lovely trip, I would recommend to a friend! It left after lunch, and we were back for dinner, so you can definitely maximise your time! The bus trip is only about 40 minutes each way, so it was really quick. Perfection!

St Emilion pano with bonus tourist.

4. Shop.

I took Georgie to the very strange rue Sainte Catherine, which is apparently the longest pedestrian mall in Europe, and we checked out what was on offer. A nicer wander was through Chartrons, especially rue Notre Dame, which has lots of antique shops and trendy little places to eat.  

5. Walk 

We did a lot of walking! Luckily we were really centrally located, so everything was really easy to get to. I normally catch the tram, which is really easy to use, but George and I walked everywhere. Such fitness junkies! Haaaa. 

This is not a picture of us walking.

Bonus 6. Work! 

I had to work during Georgie's visit which I was a bit depressed about, but whatcha gonna do? It meant that I didn't spend the whole day crying in the apartment when she left. I had to pull myself together so I could make salads for the people of Bordeaux! 

In summary, I had a lovely time having a friend to stay! Come back! And to anyone reading, come and visit! I can give you the same crazy tour as I did for Georgie. It basically just involves eating all day, every day. What more could you want?!

And now it's back to "normal life." Working all the time, and trying to settle into my new place. Sending all my love to you possums back home. xxx

Bonjour, Paris!

The time finally arrived when I got to see some familiar faces in familiar places. Another classic case of time marching diligently on, I remember counting down the days until I had visitors, and now I can't believe that they've come and gone. Carpé Diem you guys. Go hug your mum, or your dad, or your sister, or your brother, or your dog, or your friend, or if you're living away from all of them, just tell them how much you love them.*

Alors! Onto the fun stuff!

Arrived in a tempestuous Paris on Tuesday, and was thankful to have packed my parapluie  because the weather was as moody as I was. After arriving in my hotel which had an eerily similar feel to how I imagine those American motels with dodgy pools in the middle of the building, I ventured into my favourite city to eat some macarons and walk down the same familiar streets I always do. After a quick dash in the rain to Pierre Hermé for some welcome macs, it was off to Orly airport to pick up the Parisian first-timer, Pembo. That he would step foot on French soil was a momentous occasion, and so I wanted to be there to witness the moment first hand. Due to some unfortunate flight delays, dinner was to be from Paul. Nothing like an airport baguette to welcome you into the country of gastronomic extravagance!

You know, just hanging out at Noder. 

On Wednesday it was time to get stuck into some serious Parisian sight seeing, and I was feeling the pressure to deliver as a guide with only 2 1/2 days to show off the beauty of Paris. First up was the Louvre, with the compulsory Mona mosh pit experience. And then, as tradition dictates if I am left in charge of a map in the Palais Royal, we got lost, and so got to see a corner I had yet to experience- exotic African, Oceanic, and Asian sculptures. Fun! After a less than impressive lunch in the Louvre Carousel food court (rookies!) it was off to Notre Dame to visit Quasi. The ever impressive Sainte Chapelle was next, because really, you can't miss those windows. Magnifique. 

Gor-jus.

Dinner with Tess and her boyfriend Guilluame was on the cards for the evening's entertainment, so we met Tess after her last day of work, and headed off for a pre-dinner drink which was not to be as we waited for Guilluame. Unfortunately for the wine bar we ended up in, the menu did not inspire us, and having just arrived from Bordeaux, I wasn't particularly taken to paying the same price for a glass of wine that I could buy as a bottle from the supermarket. (Shout out to supermarket wine!) Dinner was at a delicious Senegalese restaurant in the 11ème arrondissesment, called "Le Waly Fay." Malheuresement for you, my phone died, so you'll have to imagine what my fish dish looked like.All in all, it was a great meal with some fabulous company, and I'd definitely recommend heading here if you're tired of the same old french bistro fare.

Thanks for the gift to the Louvre, Easter Island!

Thursday was here, and I had a big day on the cards. Here was the ultimate day coming right up. Let me set the scene. (For something different). We awoke to blue skies with a scattering of fairy floss clouds, 28C, the promise of a skyline panorama, and delicious eats. To the Tour Eiffel we go! Buttery, flakey sustenance was required, so a quick pitstop to the local boulangerie was made and pain au chocolats consumed. We then joined the queue of Paris Exhibition die hard fans to ascend the tower. So. Many. People. So. Little. Personal. Space. Of course the views were beautiful. On ya Gustave! Cheers for making that one happen! I did have a minor freak out when I thought we might not make it to lunch because of the wait to descend the tower. All I can say is, good luck to whoever tries to get in between me and food. Luckily for everyone involved, we made it to Septime with plenty of time to spare!

What a glorious, glorious meal. I know it's been said on the internet before, and also in print media, because I've read it, but I would also like to add my two centimes and say that this place is for sure up there. Spot on flavours and a great vibe. Plus Aesop soap in the bathroom. Best. The lunch options were either 3 courses chosen from the menu, or a 5 course carte blanche, chosen by the kitchen. We went for the 3 courses, because I always show constraint when ordering... I had a ceviche style starter which was delish, while Pembo had a tomato salad. Mains were tuna or pork belly. One of each was ordered. As for the dessert! It was a perfect end to a summer lunch. On the menu it simply read as "Raspberry, Rhubarb and Fresh Almond." Special mention also goes to the bread. Fantastic crust, and a nice dense centre. You know the bread's good when you don't want to finish your main so that the bread basket is still required at the table. Septime kicked a lot of goals, and even converted a sceptic. My advice- do it!

Starter 

Dessert

To celebrate such a glorious day, it was time for a wander through the rive gauche on our way to coffee at Le Coutume. Proper, decent coffees in Paris. What a place! Plus I'm never going to say no to sits and chats in a café! Next, we needed some supplies for a Luxembourg Garden sit, so La Grande Epicerie was the place to go for some end of season peaches and cherries. Such a great spot. The people watching! The view! The company! What a win! Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end, and so it was time for dinner. Dad's favourite bistrot, Le Petit Vatel was just around the corner, so we wandered over. I had my first disappointing meal there, which was a shame, because it's usually a solid choice. All of a sudden, sunset was upon us, and so to the Seine we marched for some ultimate scenic shots.

Then, a devastating thing occurred. I needed to wee, and yet there were no toilets near by. When I finally found a toilet, the line was so long that I gave up hope of ever feeling comfortable again, and hoped that my burst bladder would lead to a swift death. A beacon of hope presented itself in the form of a free public toilet with no line. As I circled the cubicle, vulture like, I was left with a sinking feeling. Hors service. Out of order. I can add this experience to the short list of times when I have seriously contemplated weeing in a bush. Awkwardly, the decision had also been made to make it to the Eiffel Tower to witness the twinkle lights. This lead to a terribley stressed and frantic journey to make it not only in time for "the show" but also continuous hunting for toilets. Not my finest hour.

Top Paris Tips

1. Whenever you have access to a toilet (especially if it's free), go. You never regret doing a wee, only the missed opportunity.
2. Wear comfortable shoes. Leather sandals do not a comfortable day of walking make. (NB When I say comfortable, I don't mean runners or whatever heinous form of croc is doing the circuit. Remember that you're still in Paris. And representing yourself.)
3. Carry emergency food supplies. Muesli bars are always appreciated in times of need. As is straight up chocolate.

You'll be pleased to read that I did eventually make it to a toilet, and as far as I'm aware, I have not suffered any permanent damage from this evening.

Chip Friday! Excitingly, chip Friday coincided with an accommodation moving day. Time to pack! Yeah! I find it hilarious that I still struggle to properly pack my bags after so much experience doing so, but hey, just add that to my list of charms! Time to climb the Arc de Triomphe for yet another magnificent view of Paris.After another rooftop appreciation session, it was off to the Marais so that I could check into a seriously good hostel. MIJE is a french hostel group, and they have 3 hostels in the Marais in lovely buildings. Perfectly located, and bargain prices. After ceremoniously dumping bags, it was time for lunch at a boulangerie called "Au Petit Versailles du Marais" for baguettes made with bread voted as the 2nd best in all of Paris. The gateaux here also rock my world. What a great bakery. Following a wander around the area, and compulsory Starbucks wifi stop, it was time for afternoon dessert. I was shattered to learn that Pain de Sucre was shut for summer, because I still dream of their raspberry and rhubard gateaux, so we settled for éclairs from Eclair de Genie. Now when I say settle, I should really clarify this statement by adding that these are the most exquisite éclairs that have ever existed. Christophe Adams, you are a God. After a bit of wandering, it was time for a team split, as Pembo had to make his way north to meet with his tour group. Dinner for one was a falafel from not the best falafel place in the Marais. Another devastating summer close that I had to come to terms with. Thankfully, a walk by the Seine helped to ease the pain of an inferior chickpea and eggplant combination.

A bit of a nice view, that one.

Figue

I was up bright and early for a Saturday, as I went off to a macaron class at the Cordon Bleu. I wasn't interested so much in how to make macarons, given that I've made a few in my time, but instead I waned to check out the kitchens and see how the most famous culinary school in the world looked from the inside. I can report that it was very similar to the one in which I trained at Regency Park, which is nice to know. Plus I scored an apron and a tea towel from the experience, which will make setting up the studio that little bit easier. A girl can never have too many tea towels!

When I returned from the class, it was time to check out a museum that I hadn't yet visited. The Musée Carnavalet did not disappoint! There was a temporary photographic and film exhibition depicting the liberation of Paris, as well as some fantastic permanent exhibits showing "the first Parisians" and whole rooms of revolution era furniture and paintings and general bits and pieces. If you find yourself in Paris wanting a museum that isn't full to the brim with touristos searching for Leo and Vincent's masterpieces, check it out!

Here's a piece that was tucked away in a stairwell. 

Carnavalet gardens. 

Late in the afternoon, the man working at the Hotel du Septième Art on rue Saint-Paul was lucky enough to witness a rom-com worthy reunion. GEORGIE WAS IN PARIS! Let's celebrate with cake! Time for some serious chats and catchups. After getting caught in the rain (unfortunately no piña coladas) and a quick costume change, it was time for a serious flashback Friday style evening. Pembo, Georgie and I all met up for drinks at Le Fumoir before dinner at Spring. The menu at Spring changes daily at the whim of the chefs, and so we had no idea what would be in store for the evening. The starters were all delicious, with lots of little tasters, and then a tuna dish. Unfortunately the next few courses didn't have quite the same pizz-azz as the start, and we all started to feel quite full from the butter and salt laden dishes. General consensus also lead to the conclusion that dessert could have been better than the peach clafouti plus extras that we were served. Not so say that it wasn't a good meal, I think we're just generally spoilt for choice in Australia, and my recent experience at Septime felt more well rounded. Maybe if we'd gone on another night we would have enjoyed the food more. At least the company was good! Complete with many rounds of "would you rather" to fill the restaurant with our inappropriate laughter and English banter.With the end of the night came a seedy selfie photoshoot, and then a run to the metro and yet another teary Paris goodbye from me.

Phone + darkness + wine = winner

Easing into Sunday, Georgie and I had a terrace breakfast and enjoyed watching the Marais wake up, and then joined the teems of people wandering the streets. Cheese and cake was obviously required, so we made the quick trip to la marche at Concorde. Nothing beats French markets! Produce, knick-knacks and french chatter, heaven. Cheese and éclairs for lunch made for yet another balanced meal in my french food plan. Some walks rounded out the weekend, and then it was off to the train station to head back to Bordeaux with Georgie. Spoiler alert- Bordeaux was great with a friend, but I'll put up a dedicated post for our food and wine adventures here soon.

My beautiful friend at some beautiful markets.

And so ends an epic week of Parisian sights and eats. Thank you to everyone involved! I never imagined that I would be having dinner with these two people who have both played such key roles in my life in PARIS in 2014. Life is a funny thing.

xxx

*Love you guys!