Hola amigos!
So I finally did something that I've been meaning to do since moving, and no it's not develop a comprehensive list of desserts that can be prepared sans oven- that's still in development- I made a short trip down to San Sebastián! It takes less time to get to Spain than it does to Paris from Bordeaux, and so it only made sense for me to go when I had some time off. And so with my backpack packed and on my back, I boarded the train, destination Hendaye with a gaggle of excited 50 plussers. No word of a lie, there were about 20 parental aged travellers shouting to each other through the carriage and making jokes for the first hour of the trip. Crying babies, I'll take you any day. After a particularly delightful train nap, I descended at Hendaye and swiftly remembered that I do not speak Spanish. Hendaye is on the very border of France and Spain, and while technically a french speaking location, I was required to purchase my regional ticket to San Seb in español. More like espanlol. 40 minutes later I had arrived at my destination and so I made my way to the "Surfing Etxea" hostel. I know I'm reaching my limits for hostel stints, but sometimes if you cross your fingers and toes you manage to find a place that doesn't make you want to stab 19 year olds with the communal cutlery. This was one of those places.
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| Do love a marina pic. |
While it was located on the "new town" side of the river (yikes, wrong side of the river) it was close to the surfing beach which is always nice for walks and surfer perving, and the other people who were staying there were so lovely. It's basically a guys house that he's converted into a hostel, so it feels nice and homey, plus it was also really clean. Would recommend. But onto the more important things! Food!
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| The devicive bridge. Fondly renamed, "Golf Ball Bridge." |
I had pretty much planned to spend my time away eating pintxos and drinking sangria for 2 solid days, and I did not disappoint myself. On the first night we headed out to some pintxos bars (tapas that is laid out on bars for customers to select as they fancy) to give the local fare a go. To someone who has seen the movie "Mermaids" and grown up with the soundtrack providing the tunes to a childhood, the idea of eating what is essentially finger food for dinner is right up my alley. I think the idea is just to have 1 or 2 items and then move on to another bar, (or probably eat a proper meal) but given my issues with decision making, I would usually end up with 4 or 5 morsels on my plate. The first night we just kind of floated around to wherever was open (Monday nights are not such a happening thing at the end of the tourist season it would seem) but on the second night, I was prepared with a list, and so with my new buddies in tow, we hit the streets to do what I do best; eat.
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| The food's so good you'll have to pintxo-self. |
I had a delicious scallop gratin at the first bar we went to, and then a not so inspiring anchovy combo at the next stop, but this was all just a lead up to the most amazing tapas experience ever at Zeruko. This place was seriously cool. I know that I'm easily influenced by a bit of food bling, but they had gold dust on artichoke hearts! Golden hearts! Filled with more delicious scallopy goodness. In hindsight, I did chose savoury items that all looked like desserts, but hey, I know what I like. Another notable item was the pistachio crumbed blood sausage served with raspberry sauce. Too pretty not to enjoy! After all of the deliciousness, we went to a bar famous for it's cheesecake. Someone had told us a story of a woman crying with joy when she tried this cheesecake. Sceptical as I was, inward we journeyed to try this tear inducing cake. I have to say, I was initially impressed that they had 14 tins of cheesecake waiting to be served. It was like looking into my future as a mother who has nailed dinner food prep for the week. I jest, cheesecake is a weekend dinner food. Verdict: I love cheesecake, so it was good, but I did not shed a tear, my desire to bake my own chocolate cheesecake merely grew stronger. So, so content with all this food!
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| Bling food! |
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| Not so blingy, but just as delicious. |
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| Cheesecaaaaaake! |
In other activities (as if eating isn't enough) I also climbed the hill to visit the Jesus statue, and shopped at Zara. A larger range and lower prices! Thanks Spain! Plus general wandering and church sightings were thrown in for good measure.
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| View from Jesus Hill. |
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| Plaza de la Constitución |
And as if this is all sounding just too good to be true, it is. I had decided to take a late train home to Bordeaux, one which just happened to be the final train for the day out of Hendaye. And guess what I managed to do? I got on the wrong train. So I journeyed 4km south to Irun, the Spanish border town, and got stuck. Having realised that I was in a regional Spanish town at dusk, there may have been a few quick tears (where was the cheesecake?!) and I stress ate 2 twix bars from a vending machine. Alas back to San Sebastián I travelled to meet yet more Australians at the hostel, and I ventured back to Bordeaux the next day. What a relief it was to finally be home! Never had I felt such joy at seeing the giant puddle of water at Place de la Bourse, commonly known as the "Miroir d'Eau."
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| You probably think this flavour's about you. |
And so ends my adventure to San Sebastián, land of deliciousness. Go and eat there, it was fabulous!
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