Alors! Onto the fun stuff!
Arrived in a tempestuous Paris on Tuesday, and was thankful to have packed my parapluie because the weather was as moody as I was. After arriving in my hotel which had an eerily similar feel to how I imagine those American motels with dodgy pools in the middle of the building, I ventured into my favourite city to eat some macarons and walk down the same familiar streets I always do. After a quick dash in the rain to Pierre Hermé for some welcome macs, it was off to Orly airport to pick up the Parisian first-timer, Pembo. That he would step foot on French soil was a momentous occasion, and so I wanted to be there to witness the moment first hand. Due to some unfortunate flight delays, dinner was to be from Paul. Nothing like an airport baguette to welcome you into the country of gastronomic extravagance!
You know, just hanging out at Noder.
On Wednesday it was time to get stuck into some serious Parisian sight seeing, and I was feeling the pressure to deliver as a guide with only 2 1/2 days to show off the beauty of Paris. First up was the Louvre, with the compulsory Mona mosh pit experience. And then, as tradition dictates if I am left in charge of a map in the Palais Royal, we got lost, and so got to see a corner I had yet to experience- exotic African, Oceanic, and Asian sculptures. Fun! After a less than impressive lunch in the Louvre Carousel food court (rookies!) it was off to Notre Dame to visit Quasi. The ever impressive Sainte Chapelle was next, because really, you can't miss those windows. Magnifique.
Gor-jus.
Dinner with Tess and her boyfriend Guilluame was on the cards for the evening's entertainment, so we met Tess after her last day of work, and headed off for a pre-dinner drink which was not to be as we waited for Guilluame. Unfortunately for the wine bar we ended up in, the menu did not inspire us, and having just arrived from Bordeaux, I wasn't particularly taken to paying the same price for a glass of wine that I could buy as a bottle from the supermarket. (Shout out to supermarket wine!) Dinner was at a delicious Senegalese restaurant in the 11ème arrondissesment, called "Le Waly Fay." Malheuresement for you, my phone died, so you'll have to imagine what my fish dish looked like.All in all, it was a great meal with some fabulous company, and I'd definitely recommend heading here if you're tired of the same old french bistro fare.
Thanks for the gift to the Louvre, Easter Island!
Thursday was here, and I had a big day on the cards. Here was the ultimate day coming right up. Let me set the scene. (For something different). We awoke to blue skies with a scattering of fairy floss clouds, 28C, the promise of a skyline panorama, and delicious eats. To the Tour Eiffel we go! Buttery, flakey sustenance was required, so a quick pitstop to the local boulangerie was made and pain au chocolats consumed. We then joined the queue of Paris Exhibition die hard fans to ascend the tower. So. Many. People. So. Little. Personal. Space. Of course the views were beautiful. On ya Gustave! Cheers for making that one happen! I did have a minor freak out when I thought we might not make it to lunch because of the wait to descend the tower. All I can say is, good luck to whoever tries to get in between me and food. Luckily for everyone involved, we made it to Septime with plenty of time to spare!
What a glorious, glorious meal. I know it's been said on the internet before, and also in print media, because I've read it, but I would also like to add my two centimes and say that this place is for sure up there. Spot on flavours and a great vibe. Plus Aesop soap in the bathroom. Best. The lunch options were either 3 courses chosen from the menu, or a 5 course carte blanche, chosen by the kitchen. We went for the 3 courses, because I always show constraint when ordering... I had a ceviche style starter which was delish, while Pembo had a tomato salad. Mains were tuna or pork belly. One of each was ordered. As for the dessert! It was a perfect end to a summer lunch. On the menu it simply read as "Raspberry, Rhubarb and Fresh Almond." Special mention also goes to the bread. Fantastic crust, and a nice dense centre. You know the bread's good when you don't want to finish your main so that the bread basket is still required at the table. Septime kicked a lot of goals, and even converted a sceptic. My advice- do it!
Starter
Dessert
To celebrate such a glorious day, it was time for a wander through the rive gauche on our way to coffee at Le Coutume. Proper, decent coffees in Paris. What a place! Plus I'm never going to say no to sits and chats in a café! Next, we needed some supplies for a Luxembourg Garden sit, so La Grande Epicerie was the place to go for some end of season peaches and cherries. Such a great spot. The people watching! The view! The company! What a win! Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end, and so it was time for dinner. Dad's favourite bistrot, Le Petit Vatel was just around the corner, so we wandered over. I had my first disappointing meal there, which was a shame, because it's usually a solid choice. All of a sudden, sunset was upon us, and so to the Seine we marched for some ultimate scenic shots.
Then, a devastating thing occurred. I needed to wee, and yet there were no toilets near by. When I finally found a toilet, the line was so long that I gave up hope of ever feeling comfortable again, and hoped that my burst bladder would lead to a swift death. A beacon of hope presented itself in the form of a free public toilet with no line. As I circled the cubicle, vulture like, I was left with a sinking feeling. Hors service. Out of order. I can add this experience to the short list of times when I have seriously contemplated weeing in a bush. Awkwardly, the decision had also been made to make it to the Eiffel Tower to witness the twinkle lights. This lead to a terribley stressed and frantic journey to make it not only in time for "the show" but also continuous hunting for toilets. Not my finest hour.
Top Paris Tips
1. Whenever you have access to a toilet (especially if it's free), go. You never regret doing a wee, only the missed opportunity.2. Wear comfortable shoes. Leather sandals do not a comfortable day of walking make. (NB When I say comfortable, I don't mean runners or whatever heinous form of croc is doing the circuit. Remember that you're still in Paris. And representing yourself.)
3. Carry emergency food supplies. Muesli bars are always appreciated in times of need. As is straight up chocolate.
You'll be pleased to read that I did eventually make it to a toilet, and as far as I'm aware, I have not suffered any permanent damage from this evening.
Chip Friday! Excitingly, chip Friday coincided with an accommodation moving day. Time to pack! Yeah! I find it hilarious that I still struggle to properly pack my bags after so much experience doing so, but hey, just add that to my list of charms! Time to climb the Arc de Triomphe for yet another magnificent view of Paris.After another rooftop appreciation session, it was off to the Marais so that I could check into a seriously good hostel. MIJE is a french hostel group, and they have 3 hostels in the Marais in lovely buildings. Perfectly located, and bargain prices. After ceremoniously dumping bags, it was time for lunch at a boulangerie called "Au Petit Versailles du Marais" for baguettes made with bread voted as the 2nd best in all of Paris. The gateaux here also rock my world. What a great bakery. Following a wander around the area, and compulsory Starbucks wifi stop, it was time for afternoon dessert. I was shattered to learn that Pain de Sucre was shut for summer, because I still dream of their raspberry and rhubard gateaux, so we settled for éclairs from Eclair de Genie. Now when I say settle, I should really clarify this statement by adding that these are the most exquisite éclairs that have ever existed. Christophe Adams, you are a God. After a bit of wandering, it was time for a team split, as Pembo had to make his way north to meet with his tour group. Dinner for one was a falafel from not the best falafel place in the Marais. Another devastating summer close that I had to come to terms with. Thankfully, a walk by the Seine helped to ease the pain of an inferior chickpea and eggplant combination.
A bit of a nice view, that one.
Figue
I was up bright and early for a Saturday, as I went off to a macaron class at the Cordon Bleu. I wasn't interested so much in how to make macarons, given that I've made a few in my time, but instead I waned to check out the kitchens and see how the most famous culinary school in the world looked from the inside. I can report that it was very similar to the one in which I trained at Regency Park, which is nice to know. Plus I scored an apron and a tea towel from the experience, which will make setting up the studio that little bit easier. A girl can never have too many tea towels!
When I returned from the class, it was time to check out a museum that I hadn't yet visited. The Musée Carnavalet did not disappoint! There was a temporary photographic and film exhibition depicting the liberation of Paris, as well as some fantastic permanent exhibits showing "the first Parisians" and whole rooms of revolution era furniture and paintings and general bits and pieces. If you find yourself in Paris wanting a museum that isn't full to the brim with touristos searching for Leo and Vincent's masterpieces, check it out!
Here's a piece that was tucked away in a stairwell.
Carnavalet gardens.
Late in the afternoon, the man working at the Hotel du Septième Art on rue Saint-Paul was lucky enough to witness a rom-com worthy reunion. GEORGIE WAS IN PARIS! Let's celebrate with cake! Time for some serious chats and catchups. After getting caught in the rain (unfortunately no piña coladas) and a quick costume change, it was time for a serious flashback Friday style evening. Pembo, Georgie and I all met up for drinks at Le Fumoir before dinner at Spring. The menu at Spring changes daily at the whim of the chefs, and so we had no idea what would be in store for the evening. The starters were all delicious, with lots of little tasters, and then a tuna dish. Unfortunately the next few courses didn't have quite the same pizz-azz as the start, and we all started to feel quite full from the butter and salt laden dishes. General consensus also lead to the conclusion that dessert could have been better than the peach clafouti plus extras that we were served. Not so say that it wasn't a good meal, I think we're just generally spoilt for choice in Australia, and my recent experience at Septime felt more well rounded. Maybe if we'd gone on another night we would have enjoyed the food more. At least the company was good! Complete with many rounds of "would you rather" to fill the restaurant with our inappropriate laughter and English banter.With the end of the night came a seedy selfie photoshoot, and then a run to the metro and yet another teary Paris goodbye from me.
Phone + darkness + wine = winner
Easing into Sunday, Georgie and I had a terrace breakfast and enjoyed watching the Marais wake up, and then joined the teems of people wandering the streets. Cheese and cake was obviously required, so we made the quick trip to la marche at Concorde. Nothing beats French markets! Produce, knick-knacks and french chatter, heaven. Cheese and éclairs for lunch made for yet another balanced meal in my french food plan. Some walks rounded out the weekend, and then it was off to the train station to head back to Bordeaux with Georgie. Spoiler alert- Bordeaux was great with a friend, but I'll put up a dedicated post for our food and wine adventures here soon.
My beautiful friend at some beautiful markets.
And so ends an epic week of Parisian sights and eats. Thank you to everyone involved! I never imagined that I would be having dinner with these two people who have both played such key roles in my life in PARIS in 2014. Life is a funny thing.
xxx
*Love you guys!
Yay for Noder and number two baguettes! Sounds like an amazing week. You speak so much truth about toilets. Miss you xx
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