Tuesday, 26 August 2014

A self-directed therapy session.

France is onto a good trend. Today I picked up a carnet de coloriage antistress at my beloved Mollat. "An antistress carnet?!" you ask. Why yes! It is a colouring in book for adults! And it is great! I've been stressing out a bit lately because I still haven't quite sussed out my work/visa situation, and I'm terrified of being deported, plus I've also been a bit sad and lonely (don't cry for me Argentina) so thought I'd go back to basics and spend some time colouring in, a la kindy days.

Just imagine this seascape filled with texta! How relaxing!
I'm happy to report that it was a fantastic investment. It really helped me calm down and redirect some of my energy. I'm not sure if these kinds of books are available in Australia, but even so, get yourself a kids colouring in book and give it a go the next time you're freaking out about your visa and long term goals. HA! Or whatever else might be playing on your mind.

Nothing like a floral seal to soothe the soul!

Besties in Bordeaux

Georgie came down to Bordeaux with me after Paris, so we had another 5 days together. It was spectacular. It was so nice being in B-town with a friend and having someone to hang and chat with. I was pretty devastated when we had to part ways again. I can safely say that I am terrible at saying goodbye to people. Definitely not an activity for the public arena! Here is the breakdown of our 5 days together in the form of our major activities. 


1. Eat.

My favourite activity! The first night we had a slightly liquid diet with wine, and then couldn't make a decision about what we actually felt like eating (typical!). Eventually we ended up at an Italian place and had pizza. Gelati afterwards of course! 

We also tried out L'Entrecôte, which is a french chain specialising in a one dish menu- entrecôte! It's served with unlimited chips, and a secret recipe sauce. (If butter is a secret ingredient, I think we cracked the code) Georgie and I went with some of my new found Aussie pals, and I think we were all a bit apprehensive about how it worked. I have to say though, I was pleasantly surprised! Let's face it, I'm always going to be won over with chips! 

Chip Partayyyy

For our last meal together (sob) we went to the most well know bistro in town, La Tupina. It's won all kinds of awards, and is written up everywhere as the place to eat in Bordeaux, so we were looking forward to it. Long story short though, we were both kind of disappointed. The wine was insanely expensive for what we got, the service we received was awkward, and our mains were not particularly inspiring. After sharing a starter of foie gras (which was good), I had the roast chicken, which was a bit dry, and Georgie had duck, which came with no sauce. Literally just a lump of meat on her plate. Very strange. I think maybe the lunch menu would have been better, or maybe we're just spoilt (probably both). The comment was thrown around that we could both have cooked better roasts at home, which is never what you want to be saying when you're paying for a meal. So I don't know you guys, I feel bad giving such a negative review, but I was just expecting more.


Chicken, served with a variety of fats.

Of course there were also boulangerie trips thrown in for good measure too! Bread is essential, so we made assorted trips to Paul and also a patissierie called David which was nearby at the Galerie des Grands Hommes. (Who are all of these men, and why haven't I met them yet?!)  


2. Drink.
Bordeaux. Home of wine. Of course we were going to have some dranks! We tried out the wine bar at the Ecole du Vin (where I had previously done a wine class) and would definitely recommend. Glasses of wine are only around €2 or €3, so it was really easy to try a few different sorts and not feel guilty if we didn't like them. Not going to lie, I can't remember any of the names, but the setting is really cool, and there are some nice tasting plates too. We had some cheese and charcuterie, and combined with the people watching, we had a merry old time! (Honestly though, Georgie and I could probably have the time of our lives watching paint dry- miss you gurlfrand!)

A wall of wine.

We also went to the rooftop bar at the top of the Grand Hotel, which promises panoramic views of the city. All of the balcony tables at the edge of the building were taken, so we didn't get to enjoy the view as we sipped our crazy expensive drinks, but it was something different to do! 

Pano roof shot with some bonus cranes. Lucky!






3. Day trip. 
A trip to Bordeaux would not be complete without a trip out to one of the wineries! We went to Saint Emilion on a bus organised by the tourist office, which was great. Our tour guide was so lovely, and was very informative. We visited one of the chateau in the region and were given an extensive guided tour, and were shown around all of the wine production areas and had the processes explained. Then there was the much awaited tasting, and we nervously shared our thoughts on the wine and picked out the flavours we could taste. "Don't be scared!" 

Just a couple of barrels. 

Then we went into the town of Saint Emilion and had a look around the crazy old church and sampled original recipe macarons. It was a really lovely trip, I would recommend to a friend! It left after lunch, and we were back for dinner, so you can definitely maximise your time! The bus trip is only about 40 minutes each way, so it was really quick. Perfection!

St Emilion pano with bonus tourist.
4. Shop.
I took Georgie to the very strange rue Sainte Catherine, which is apparently the longest pedestrian mall in Europe, and we checked out what was on offer. A nicer wander was through Chartrons, especially rue Notre Dame, which has lots of antique shops and trendy little places to eat.  

5. Walk 
We did a lot of walking! Luckily we were really centrally located, so everything was really easy to get to. I normally catch the tram, which is really easy to use, but George and I walked everywhere. Such fitness junkies! Haaaa. 

This is not a picture of us walking.

Bonus 6. Work! 

I had to work during Georgie's visit which I was a bit depressed about, but whatcha gonna do? It meant that I didn't spend the whole day crying in the apartment when she left. I had to pull myself together so I could make salads for the people of Bordeaux! 


In summary, I had a lovely time having a friend to stay! Come back! And to anyone reading, come and visit! I can give you the same crazy tour as I did for Georgie. It basically just involves eating all day, every day. What more could you want?!

And now it's back to "normal life." Working all the time, and trying to settle into my new place. Sending all my love to you possums back home. xxx

Wednesday, 13 August 2014

Bonjour, Paris!

The time finally arrived when I got to see some familiar faces in familiar places. Another classic case of time marching diligently on, I remember counting down the days until I had visitors, and now I can't believe that they've come and gone. Carpé Diem you guys. Go hug your mum, or your dad, or your sister, or your brother, or your dog, or your friend, or if you're living away from all of them, just tell them how much you love them.*

Alors! Onto the fun stuff!

Arrived in a tempestuous Paris on Tuesday, and was thankful to have packed my parapluie  because the weather was as moody as I was. After arriving in my hotel which had an eerily similar feel to how I imagine those American motels with dodgy pools in the middle of the building, I ventured into my favourite city to eat some macarons and walk down the same familiar streets I always do. After a quick dash in the rain to Pierre Hermé for some welcome macs, it was off to Orly airport to pick up the Parisian first-timer, Pembo. That he would step foot on French soil was a momentous occasion, and so I wanted to be there to witness the moment first hand. Due to some unfortunate flight delays, dinner was to be from Paul. Nothing like an airport baguette to welcome you into the country of gastronomic extravagance!

You know, just hanging out at Noder. 

On Wednesday it was time to get stuck into some serious Parisian sight seeing, and I was feeling the pressure to deliver as a guide with only 2 1/2 days to show off the beauty of Paris. First up was the Louvre, with the compulsory Mona mosh pit experience. And then, as tradition dictates if I am left in charge of a map in the Palais Royal, we got lost, and so got to see a corner I had yet to experience- exotic African, Oceanic, and Asian sculptures. Fun! After a less than impressive lunch in the Louvre Carousel food court (rookies!) it was off to Notre Dame to visit Quasi. The ever impressive Sainte Chapelle was next, because really, you can't miss those windows. Magnifique. 


Gor-jus.

Dinner with Tess and her boyfriend Guilluame was on the cards for the evening's entertainment, so we met Tess after her last day of work, and headed off for a pre-dinner drink which was not to be as we waited for Guilluame. Unfortunately for the wine bar we ended up in, the menu did not inspire us, and having just arrived from Bordeaux, I wasn't particularly taken to paying the same price for a glass of wine that I could buy as a bottle from the supermarket. (Shout out to supermarket wine!) Dinner was at a delicious Senegalese restaurant in the 11ème arrondissesment, called "Le Waly Fay." Malheuresement for you, my phone died, so you'll have to imagine what my fish dish looked like.All in all, it was a great meal with some fabulous company, and I'd definitely recommend heading here if you're tired of the same old french bistro fare.

Thanks for the gift to the Louvre, Easter Island!

Thursday was here, and I had a big day on the cards. Here was the ultimate day coming right up. Let me set the scene. (For something different). We awoke to blue skies with a scattering of fairy floss clouds, 28C, the promise of a skyline panorama, and delicious eats. To the Tour Eiffel we go! Buttery, flakey sustenance was required, so a quick pitstop to the local boulangerie was made and pain au chocolats consumed. We then joined the queue of Paris Exhibition die hard fans to ascend the tower. So. Many. People. So. Little. Personal. Space. Of course the views were beautiful. On ya Gustave! Cheers for making that one happen! I did have a minor freak out when I thought we might not make it to lunch because of the wait to descend the tower. All I can say is, good luck to whoever tries to get in between me and food. Luckily for everyone involved, we made it to Septime with plenty of time to spare!


What a glorious, glorious meal. I know it's been said on the internet before, and also in print media, because I've read it, but I would also like to add my two centimes and say that this place is for sure up there. Spot on flavours and a great vibe. Plus Aesop soap in the bathroom. Best. The lunch options were either 3 courses chosen from the menu, or a 5 course carte blanche, chosen by the kitchen. We went for the 3 courses, because I always show constraint when ordering... I had a ceviche style starter which was delish, while Pembo had a tomato salad. Mains were tuna or pork belly. One of each was ordered. As for the dessert! It was a perfect end to a summer lunch. On the menu it simply read as "Raspberry, Rhubarb and Fresh Almond." Special mention also goes to the bread. Fantastic crust, and a nice dense centre. You know the bread's good when you don't want to finish your main so that the bread basket is still required at the table. Septime kicked a lot of goals, and even converted a sceptic. My advice- do it!

Starter 

Dessert

To celebrate such a glorious day, it was time for a wander through the rive gauche on our way to coffee at Le Coutume. Proper, decent coffees in Paris. What a place! Plus I'm never going to say no to sits and chats in a café! Next, we needed some supplies for a Luxembourg Garden sit, so La Grande Epicerie was the place to go for some end of season peaches and cherries. Such a great spot. The people watching! The view! The company! What a win! Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end, and so it was time for dinner. Dad's favourite bistrot, Le Petit Vatel was just around the corner, so we wandered over. I had my first disappointing meal there, which was a shame, because it's usually a solid choice. All of a sudden, sunset was upon us, and so to the Seine we marched for some ultimate scenic shots.



Then, a devastating thing occurred. I needed to wee, and yet there were no toilets near by. When I finally found a toilet, the line was so long that I gave up hope of ever feeling comfortable again, and hoped that my burst bladder would lead to a swift death. A beacon of hope presented itself in the form of a free public toilet with no line. As I circled the cubicle, vulture like, I was left with a sinking feeling. Hors service. Out of order. I can add this experience to the short list of times when I have seriously contemplated weeing in a bush. Awkwardly, the decision had also been made to make it to the Eiffel Tower to witness the twinkle lights. This lead to a terribley stressed and frantic journey to make it not only in time for "the show" but also continuous hunting for toilets. Not my finest hour.

Top Paris Tips
1. Whenever you have access to a toilet (especially if it's free), go. You never regret doing a wee, only the missed opportunity.
2. Wear comfortable shoes. Leather sandals do not a comfortable day of walking make. (NB When I say comfortable, I don't mean runners or whatever heinous form of croc is doing the circuit. Remember that you're still in Paris. And representing yourself.)
3. Carry emergency food supplies. Muesli bars are always appreciated in times of need. As is straight up chocolate.

You'll be pleased to read that I did eventually make it to a toilet, and as far as I'm aware, I have not suffered any permanent damage from this evening.


Chip Friday! Excitingly, chip Friday coincided with an accommodation moving day. Time to pack! Yeah! I find it hilarious that I still struggle to properly pack my bags after so much experience doing so, but hey, just add that to my list of charms! Time to climb the Arc de Triomphe for yet another magnificent view of Paris.After another rooftop appreciation session, it was off to the Marais so that I could check into a seriously good hostel. MIJE is a french hostel group, and they have 3 hostels in the Marais in lovely buildings. Perfectly located, and bargain prices. After ceremoniously dumping bags, it was time for lunch at a boulangerie called "Au Petit Versailles du Marais" for baguettes made with bread voted as the 2nd best in all of Paris. The gateaux here also rock my world. What a great bakery. Following a wander around the area, and compulsory Starbucks wifi stop, it was time for afternoon dessert. I was shattered to learn that Pain de Sucre was shut for summer, because I still dream of their raspberry and rhubard gateaux, so we settled for éclairs from Eclair de Genie. Now when I say settle, I should really clarify this statement by adding that these are the most exquisite éclairs that have ever existed. Christophe Adams, you are a God. After a bit of wandering, it was time for a team split, as Pembo had to make his way north to meet with his tour group. Dinner for one was a falafel from not the best falafel place in the Marais. Another devastating summer close that I had to come to terms with. Thankfully, a walk by the Seine helped to ease the pain of an inferior chickpea and eggplant combination.

A bit of a nice view, that one.

Figue

I was up bright and early for a Saturday, as I went off to a macaron class at the Cordon Bleu. I wasn't interested so much in how to make macarons, given that I've made a few in my time, but instead I waned to check out the kitchens and see how the most famous culinary school in the world looked from the inside. I can report that it was very similar to the one in which I trained at Regency Park, which is nice to know. Plus I scored an apron and a tea towel from the experience, which will make setting up the studio that little bit easier. A girl can never have too many tea towels!

When I returned from the class, it was time to check out a museum that I hadn't yet visited. The Musée Carnavalet did not disappoint! There was a temporary photographic and film exhibition depicting the liberation of Paris, as well as some fantastic permanent exhibits showing "the first Parisians" and whole rooms of revolution era furniture and paintings and general bits and pieces. If you find yourself in Paris wanting a museum that isn't full to the brim with touristos searching for Leo and Vincent's masterpieces, check it out!

Here's a piece that was tucked away in a stairwell. 

Carnavalet gardens. 

Late in the afternoon, the man working at the Hotel du Septième Art on rue Saint-Paul was lucky enough to witness a rom-com worthy reunion. GEORGIE WAS IN PARIS! Let's celebrate with cake! Time for some serious chats and catchups. After getting caught in the rain (unfortunately no piña coladas) and a quick costume change, it was time for a serious flashback Friday style evening. Pembo, Georgie and I all met up for drinks at Le Fumoir before dinner at Spring. The menu at Spring changes daily at the whim of the chefs, and so we had no idea what would be in store for the evening. The starters were all delicious, with lots of little tasters, and then a tuna dish. Unfortunately the next few courses didn't have quite the same pizz-azz as the start, and we all started to feel quite full from the butter and salt laden dishes. General consensus also lead to the conclusion that dessert could have been better than the peach clafouti plus extras that we were served. Not so say that it wasn't a good meal, I think we're just generally spoilt for choice in Australia, and my recent experience at Septime felt more well rounded. Maybe if we'd gone on another night we would have enjoyed the food more. At least the company was good! Complete with many rounds of "would you rather" to fill the restaurant with our inappropriate laughter and English banter.With the end of the night came a seedy selfie photoshoot, and then a run to the metro and yet another teary Paris goodbye from me.

Phone + darkness + wine = winner

Easing into Sunday, Georgie and I had a terrace breakfast and enjoyed watching the Marais wake up, and then joined the teems of people wandering the streets. Cheese and cake was obviously required, so we made the quick trip to la marche at Concorde. Nothing beats French markets! Produce, knick-knacks and french chatter, heaven. Cheese and éclairs for lunch made for yet another balanced meal in my french food plan. Some walks rounded out the weekend, and then it was off to the train station to head back to Bordeaux with Georgie. Spoiler alert- Bordeaux was great with a friend, but I'll put up a dedicated post for our food and wine adventures here soon.

My beautiful friend at some beautiful markets.

And so ends an epic week of Parisian sights and eats. Thank you to everyone involved! I never imagined that I would be having dinner with these two people who have both played such key roles in my life in PARIS in 2014. Life is a funny thing.

xxx

*Love you guys!

Tuesday, 12 August 2014

Life Update!

Hello to you all!

Time for me to burst the bubble of mystery that surrounds my life. "What on earth does Sarah do all day?", you must ask yourselves! I know I do! My life of leisure/stressing out about what I'm doing is reaching an end, because I have found a job, and a place to live! Wahoooo! It all happened at once- I found a job in the kitchen of an Irish pub (because nothing says, "Life in France", like working in an Irish pub with a couple of Aussie blokes!) and one of the chefs offered me his studio to rent. So as of this Saturday, I will have my own place to live! Exciting! And I will also have an income!

As for my day to day life, I'm starting to settle into a routine finally, which I haven't really had since I left Adelaide. Thanks job, for adding some structure to my life! I've had two days off after working 4 days of 13 or 14 hour days, so I was forced to use my time to get jobs done, because I won't have time for another few days to get anything sorted. Today I went to the bank to finalise my account, but alas, I was missing one more piece of paper, so I won't be able to collect my card until tomorrow. Classic. So back I'll go tomorrow after I've visited the DIRECCTE office, and the decidedly less than helpful staff there, to get my official work permit. Then off to a lunch service at le pub. At dennnn I'm staying with Daniele for a few days as I wait for the studio, and say goodbye to Chance, the dog I've been babysitting while his owners have been on holidays. It's all happening here folks!

I'll post some pics of my little nook when I finally get in there, and make it presentable to the public.

xxx